WESTLAKE VILLAGE, CALIF. — J.D Power and Associates, the market research firm, said consumers are largely happy with the performance, features, styling and price of their major appliances.According to the results of its 2007 Major Home Appliances Study, only one in 10 consumers report some kind of problem with their major appliance during the first two years of ownership, and many of those problems can be resolved by following instructions in the owner’s manual or on the manufacturer’s web site. Relatively few problems actually require a service visit, the report said.Top satisfaction scores went to Bosch in dishwashers, Maytag in freestanding ranges, GE in built-in cooktops and wall ovens, Whirlpool intop-mount refrigerators, Samsung in side-by-side and French door fridges, Kenmore in O-T-R microwaves, GE in countertop microwaves and LG in washers and dryers.The study was based on 22,637 responses from consumers who purchased one or more new major home appliances through a retail store, their new-home builder, or received one through other means (such as a gift) during the previous 24 months. Customer satisfaction was measured based on performance in six factors: operational performance (including how well the appliance functions, noise level and energy efficiency); operational features (such as the number of settings available and appliance capacity); ease of use; styling and feel; price; and warranty.
Features
How to Move Your Appliances
Moving appliances is a big job. Before you start, be sure you are aware of the work involved and that you really want to be the one to do it. Some of us are handy with installations and large unwieldy hulks of metal and some of us aren’t. To decide what type you are, read on and then either go for it yourself, or hire someone to help you out.
The first step in moving an appliance is disconnecting it from its power and water sources. Some disconnections, such as natural gas lines, should be handled only by qualified technicians. Even if you decide to hire a mover, preparing for the move is something you can do. After the appliance is disconnected, has properly disconnected them, make sure your appliance is clean and dry.
Other tips from Better Homes and Gardens include:
If you’re moving the appliances to a new home, on moving day load major appliances into the truck first. This ensures that the center of gravity will be closest to the driver, where it belongs. NOTE: If you don’t have an appliance dolly to do this safely, you can rent one from truck rental companies, hardware stores, and home centers.
Also, check to see if you saved the appliance installation instructions that you’ll need to reinstall the appliance. If not, call a local appliance dealer or the manufacturer for a new copy. You may also be able to find this information on the manufacturer’s web site.
You’ll also want to be prepared to protect the surfaces of appliances when you move them. Even simply moving an appliance in the remodeling process raises the possibility of scratching and denting. Especially when moving appliances from one home to another, be sure to have plenty of blankets and towels to protect the surfaces; also have stretch cords to hold the blankets in place.
The following tips for specific appliances are from Maytag:
Washing Machine
- Disconnect washer from electrical supply.
- Shut off the water supply and disconnect inlet hoses from their hot- and cold-water faucets, taking care not to lose the small piece of screening fitted in the end of each inlet hose. Have a bucket handy to catch water remaining in the hoses. Clean screen of sediment.
- Remove drain hose from the standpipe; empty drain hose of any remaining water.
- When you call the dealer for cartons, ask for the plastic shipping ring that fits inside the washer lid and holds the washer tub in place.
- Tape washer lid closed with several pieces of masking tape.
Dryer
- Disconnect from power source. Move dryer away from the wall and disconnect venting material.
- If the dryer operates on gas, contact a gas technician to shut off gas and disconnect the gas line in accordance with local codes. On electric models, be sure you take the power cord with you. Tape door shut.
- Disassemble the venting system and clean it — animals and insects are drawn to the warm air when the appliance is running and may have made a nest in opening.
- Remove any lint buildup. Be sure not to use any plastic venting or other combustible ductwork in your new home.
Dishwasher
- Unplug the appliance and close the water shut off valves. Remove the lower access panel below the door to disconnect electric and water lines.
- Remove the lower access panel below the door to disconnect electrical connections, if you are comfortable doing this; otherwise, contact an appliance service company to do this work.
- Disconnect the water lines and drain line, keeping a towel and small bucket handy for water spillage.
- Open doors and unscrew the mounting brackets to free from countertop.
- Make sure all racks are empty, then latch door securely. Once the appliance is free of the cabinets, you may wish to use masking tape to ensure the door is secure.
- Bring leveling legs up into the appliance and pull dishwasher slowly from opening. To keep the appliance from damaging floor, tip the dishwasher back slightly, slip a large piece of cardboard under it, and gently slide the appliance out.
Range
- Have a technician shut off gas and disconnect range from gas line and/or electrical power.
- Remove broiler pan and racks from oven; on gas range, remove surface grates. Clean storage drawer below.
- On ranges with standard gas burners, lift the top and secure burners to burner box support rod. On electric ranges, tape coil elements to the top of range.
- Remove or tape down all knobs. If a knob is stuck, insert a washcloth behind the knob to help dislodge it. Tape the oven door shut.
Refrigerator
- Turn off the refrigerator according to the instructions, and unplug it. You may have to move it out slightly from the wall to do this.
- If you have a water dispenser, a plumber may be needed to disconnect it. If you want to attempt doing this yourself, be sure to carefully follow the instructions in your owner’s manual.
- Empty all contents and clean the inside of the refrigerator, including all bins and racks.
- Thoroughly clean the outside and back of the appliance.
- Remove refrigerator handles only if the appliance doesn’t fit through the door of your old or new home.
- Tape doors shut securely with masking tape or duct tape, and remove toe board.
It’s all pretty straightforward, plan ahead, get your supplies in order and make sure you are physically ready for a day of heavy lifting.
Repairing a Toaster or Toaster Oven
If you haven’t read our article on How Toasters and Toaster Ovens Work, you might want to do that before you start any repairs. If you feel ready to tackle a smallish job like this, then read on…
How to Repair a Toaster
In many homes, toasters malfunction more than any other small appliance. There are two reasons for this. First, toasters are typically built economically to be a throw-away appliance. Replacement models start at $10.
Second, malfunctions are frequently not the fault of the toaster itself but of food particles that interfere with its operation. Excess pieces of bread broken off by carriage movement fall into the base of the toaster and accumulate, obstructing carriage movement, shorting out heating elements, plugging the latch release, and interfering with solenoid operation.
That’s why most pop-up toasters have a large crumb tray and door at the bottom of the toaster. By sliding or unlatching this crumb door you can release food particles trapped in the bottom of the toaster.
For a toaster that is used daily, this should be done once a week. Simply unplug the toaster, hold it over a trash container, and unlatch the door. Once the primary food particles have fallen out, move the toaster around to release other particles that may be trapped at the edges. Periodically clean out the toaster using a can of compressed air, making sure you don’t damage sensitive heating elements or switches.
How to Repair a Toaster Oven
Toaster ovens operate much like toasters. However, a toaster oven is more complex and is typically more expensive to purchase. The higher cost means that repairs are easier to justify. You will probably think twice before tossing a $75 toaster oven into the recycle bin. And because toaster ovens are less compact, they are often easier to work on than pop-up toasters.
Some toaster ovens simply toast bread and related food products horizontally rather than vertically as with pop-up toasters. Other toaster ovens are actually miniature ovens. The differences are identified by the wattage used — broilers require more watts of electrical power to operate — and by the controls. Some toaster ovens allow you to bake and broil foods, offering precise temperature and function control.
Typical toaster oven repairs include servicing the main switch, the thermal fuse, the heating element, and the solenoid.
Step 1: Remove the side panel and, if necessary, the power cord.
Step 2:Check the contact points for pitting or discoloration. If they are not making good contact, carefully rub them with very fine sandpaper, then clean them with an electrical contact cleaner spray or isopropyl alcohol on the end of a cotton swab. Be careful not to bend the contact leaves out of alignment.
 ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. The two dark rods along the base of this toaster are the heating elements. |
Step 3: Once the heating element has been removed, replace it with one of identical rating and structure. Be very careful not to distort the shape of the new element as it is installed. Element wires are fragile and can be damaged easily. Higher-wattage elements are of thicker wire, much like the element in your conventional oven.
How Toasters and Toaster Ovens Work
I like to know how things work. Sometimes I can figure things out by observation, but other times I want someone to explain the details to me. Toasters and toaster ovens are pretty straightforward appliances, but for those of us who want a bit more information, howstuffworks.com offers this:
How Toasters Work
Most electric pop-up toasters all operate in the same manner. A slice of bread, a frozen waffle, a toaster strudel, or some similar food item is placed through a slot in the top of the toaster and into the carriage. The carriage is lowered into the chassis using the lever at the side of the toaster.
When it reaches the bottom, the carriage latches in position and an internal switch is activated to start the heating process. A thermostat determines how long electric current will be sent from the power cord to the heating elements.
The person who is operating the toaster sets the thermostat using a control knob or lever calibrated between light and dark. When the desired temperature is reached and the heating process is completed, the solenoid turns the current off, then unlocks the latch and allows the carriage to spring up to its original position. At this time, the toasted food is easily reachable and can be removed by the operator of the appliance.
 ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. This cross section of a toaster indicates the various elements that make a toaster work. |
How Toaster Ovens Work
To operate a toaster oven, controls are set, the door is opened, food is placed on a tray, and the door is closed. If set for toasting, a toaster thermostat operates the upper and lower heating elements as selected by the color controller. If set for baking or broiling, the baking thermostat operates the heating elements as selected by the temperature controller and possibly by a timing mechanism.
 ©2006 Publications International, Ltd. The cross section of a toaster oven. |
So there it is, simple, yet indispensable in our kitchens.
Thermador’s Freedom Collection Refrigerators and Freezers
The Freedom Collection features counter-depth 24” and 30” fresh food columns, and 18”, 24” and 30” freezer columns, including dispenser freezers. Additionally, the industry’s first fully integrated and flush-mounted three-door 36” bottom-freezer, as well as a two-door version, are available within the collection. Unique 18” and 24” wine preservation columns have see-through glass doors and an interior that can hold up to 98 bottles of both red and white wine in two separate temperature zones.
As a result of its ingenious design and flexibility, the Freedom Collection recently was awarded with a 2007 Platinum Award for Design Excellence (ADEX) from Design Journal and Gold Award from Appliance Design Magazine’s Excellence in Design Awards. Other notable distinctions include a prestigious 2006 American Kitchen and Bath Award from Home Magazine, and a 2006 Merit Award from Kitchen and Bath Business’ Product Innovator Awards. The Collection was also awarded with honorable mention in the 2007 Woman’s Day Specials Best New Product (KB) Awards.
Each Freedom column has its own compressor and evaporator to eliminate odor transfer and air exchange between the refrigerator and freezer – sometimes a concern with traditional models – and perfectly regulates the interior temperature with a variance of only 1.5 degrees. When combined, this system preserves “market fresh” foods longer. The collection is available in stainless steel or can be matched to existing kitchen cabinetry for a seamless, fully integrated look.
“You have the total freedom to design your kitchen any way you want with Thermador’s new column refrigeration. For example, you can place different sized fresh food and freezer columns side-by-side, or put the fresh food column adjacent to the sink for convenient access to your fruits and vegetables. The freezer can then go on the opposite side of the kitchen, right next to your oven, for easy thawing and cooking,” said Chuck Bryant, senior refrigeration product manager. “To preview all the different types of configurations you can have, we developed a special interactive software program that’s currently available online at Thermador.com for consumers and designers to plan their layouts featuring the Freedom Collection.”
In addition to the infinite design possibilities, Thermador’s Freedom Collection offers an unrivalled assortment of exclusive features, including:
The unique Freedom® Hinge allows all the columns to be fully flush mounted to cabinetry – without sacrificing accessibility to the interior and the full extension drawers. In fact, the hinge opens the column doors up to an amazing 115 degrees. It can also accommodate a variety of custom panels up to 220 pounds in total door weight.
No longer will you have to unload a shelf to gain extra interior space. The fresh food column’s motorized Liberty ShelfT™ conveniently moves a fully loaded shelf of up to 22 pounds with the simple touch of a button. 
Also available on bottom-freezer models.
The FreeFlowTM Air System (fresh food column) results in superior temperature regulation and air distribution that helps keep “market fresh” foods longer. Cool air continually travels the length of the column door, ensuring that these items are just as cold as those on the interior shelves. A carbon air filter also absorbs any unwanted odors for fresher and more hygienic food storage.
The freezer’s FreeFlow™ Ice System regularly rotates the filtered ice in the icemaker to avoid clumping, while the UltraClarity™ Water Filter dispenses crystal fresh ice and water. The external dispenser also features an exclusive pull-down flip tray that accommodates pitcher-size containers to facilitate bulk amounts of ice or water. The Luminous Light System™ features bright halogen light towers and spotlights that fully illuminate foods, so everything can be clearly seen while creating a beautiful interior look.
Rounding out these industry exclusives are a number of additional performance features, including a convenient digital display that allows for precise temperature adjustments; multiple specially-insulated compartments that keep delicate and perishable foods fresher, longer; and an adjustable toe-kick that can range in height between 4-7 inches.
The entire Freedom Collection is ENERGY STAR® qualified and is among the quietest refrigeration units in the built-in category. Models are available with an MSRP of $2,899-$6,999; wine columns have an MSRP of $3,899-4,399.
Is the Washer Eating Your Socks? -Missing Socks Form One of Life’s Little Mysteries
Two socks enter the washer. Two socks exit the dryer.
As household tasks go, what could be simpler? A pair of socks goes from drawer to feet to dirty clothes to washer and dryer and back into the drawer.
Of course, anyone associated with a social group that faintly resembles a family knows the truth. Socks do disappear. Virtually every residence in the free world has a drawer, pile or basket of mismatched socks. Millions – no, billions – of socks drift aimlessly without mates.
“Washing machines and dryers eat socks,” says my wife of 27 years, who oversees the laundry in our seven-person family. There are other theories, of course. Sock heaven is one. A Bermuda Triangle for socks is another.
For whatever reason, our family’s mismatched-sock pile grows and grows, like an expanding cotton-blended Blob. Two or three times a year we try to match socks. Far too often, they remain alone, sentenced to the rag pile, one wipe closer to the garbage.
Today, sock sales in the U.S. are about $4.9 billion annually. Perhaps because I seem responsible for about a $1 million of those sales, I just lose it over mismatched socks. As frustration builds, I erupt, like any normal, sock-wearing person.
Once, when my daughter Allyson was playing competitive soccer, her black game sock came back from the wash inexplicably partnered with one of my black dress socks. When I put them on, the sports sock reached my knee; the dress sock climbed past my ankle. “Who in their right mind would put these two socks together?” I shouted in a rage.
My wife, returning clean clothes to drawers at the time, answered: “If you don’t like how we do socks, you can do the laundry.” By emphasizing “you” and modifying “laundry” with a word unsuitable for print, my wife revealed to me for the first time that she is truly capable of murder.
Since no matches existed for these black socks, they, too, were exiled to our pile.
“I share your pain,” says Gail Hammond-Gibson, who manages the laundry in her Long Island Freeport household of four that includes husband, Bill, daughter, Nowell, 15, and son, Julian, 13.
The family has a bag of lonely, single socks. “The problem is the bag of mismatches is larger than our supply of good socks,” she says.
Although she has no proof, she wonders if socks are made specifically to disappear, or whether there’s a conspiracy between the weavers of socks and appliance manufacturers. “It’s all about buying new socks,” she says.
Hammond-Gibson’s son seems to be the only family member who has a plan for keeping his socks together; he folds the tops of one open end into the other. “At least they get to the washing machine paired up,” mom says.
The youngster is on to something, says Audrey Reed-Granger, a marketing and public relations executive at Whirlpool, a Michigan-based manufacturer of appliances. The journey from hamper to laundry room is fraught with danger for socks.
Contrary to popular opinion, washers and dryers do not eat socks, Reed-Granger says, and she insists there is no conspiracy between the hosiery industry and the appliance manufacturers.
There are logical explanations for single-sock phenomena. First, Reed-Granger says, most socks do not make it to the washer in pairs. “Boys shoot dirty socks into hampers like they’re shooting basketballs,” she says, “so socks end up behind furniture or under the bed.”
Then she asks me if I’ve ever followed my wife as she carries a load of clothes to the washer.
I reluctantly admit that my wife often leaves behind a trail of single socks, T-shirts and unmentionables.
“The logic is based on research by Whirlpool’s Institute of Fabric Science, which studies how consumers use things like washers and dryers. The institute also claims static cling causes socks to divorce. Even when a pair gets through the washer and into the dryer, static cling can split them up. A single sock can be swallowed by a pillow case or a pant leg, which hints of textile cannibalism.
“The laundry room has been unfairly identified as a Bermuda Triangle for socks,” Reed-Granger says. “But, really, it’s not the fault of the room or the machine. It’s you.”
Well, not me. And certainly not Mary Ellen Zimmermann of Kings Park. After 20-plus years of laundry, she knows exactly why socks go single: “They escape to sock heaven.” If you were a sock, she asks, wouldn’t you be looking for greener pastures?
Reed-Granger understands.
“Before joining Whirlpool, I had a lot of missing socks, too, and I thought I was going crazy.”
One solution is using mesh laundry bags, which keep socks together before they reach the laundry room, Reed-Granger says.
Experts like author Linda Cobb, the self-professed “Queen of Clean,” says clips and rings – sold as SockCops and SockPro and designed to link single pairs as they wash and dry – also prevent socks from disappearing. Reed-Granger prefers the mesh bags, because she says such plastic items could loosen and potentially damage the appliances.
To heck with bags and organizing clips, scoff those who launder regularly. Especially those who have large families. Bags, clips and rings are too much work. Plus, deep down, they are true believers in the household legends of sock heaven and sock-munching appliances.
Again, Reed-Granger understands. So much so that she grudgingly reveals there is a rare – an extremely rare – opportunity for a washing machine to gobble up a sock.
Under the lid of the traditional machine is a gap between the tub and the drum, Reed-Granger says. “You have to really, really overload a top-end machine, so when the cycle starts, a small item could be flipped up into that gap and be lost.”
To those who toil under mountains of grimy clothes, all the while haunted by the ghosts of single socks, it finally makes sense. “What did I tell you?” my wife says.
Purchasing a Toaster Oven
If you are like me, you prefer a toaster oven to a pop-up toaster in your kitchen. A toaster oven is more versatile. To begin with, the oven can warm pastries and muffins and toast thick sliced bread that a pop-up toaster can’t handle. A larger toaster oven can hold a small casserole or cake, can roast a small chicken or even broil a steak. They can heat up frozen meals- french fries or a serving of pizza. They add less heat to a kitchen than a full size oven, which is nice in the summer. Although you might do some of these tasks in the microwave, the toaster oven browns foods, crisping them, which the microwave can’t do.
Now that you’re convinced of the necessity of owning a toaster oven, you need to choose one. Here are some things to look for when you’re shopping:
Capacity:
Smaller ovens (12″wide x 10″tall x 12″ deep)hold four slices of bread; larger ones (20″ x 10″ x 15″) can handle six.
Settings:
The most basic models have a “toast” setting, but most have more, including light, medium and dark settings. For other settings, most have the capacity to bake and broil and some can heat up to 450 degrees.
Also look for features such as preset functions for pizza or bagels which are kid friendly, electric touch pads for setting the temperature or timer, digital displays for setting precise heating and non-stick or porcelain interiors which are easier to clean.
Be sure to measure your counter space, some of the premium toaster ovens can be large and all require an extra four inches behind them (They can’t be flush against the wall) to allow for heat dissipation.
Another feature appearing on taoster ovens is convection cooking. Convection cooking uses air to circulate the heat, cooking food faster and more evenly. It is used for roasting and baking.
The really is a toaster oven for every budget. Some samples (We have not reviewed these particular models.) are:
Black & Decker Model TRO962 Toast-R-Oven with Convection Cooking, about $30
Tefal OT806000 Avante Elite 1600 Watts Toaster Oven with Convection Cooking , about $80
Oster Model 6292 , about $100
Krups Model FBC5 Toaster Oven with Convection Cooking about $200
Refrigerator Drawers Handy and Expensive
Many of us could use the space an extra refrigerator in the kitchen would provide. I have a spare freezer in the garage, but when I’m cooking for holidays or other large gatherings, my large fridge bursts to overflowing. I have even stored food for neighbors who have the same dilemma.
If you don’t need a lot of storage space and can spare a cupboard or two, a refrigerator drawer might be right for you. A refrigerator drawer is just what it sounds like- a fridge that fits under the counter and pulls out like a drawer. They can be installed near a prep sink, making them just right for fresh produce.
At consumerreports.org , they offer a complete look at some brands, pointing out both pros and cons.
Refrigerator drawers provide not only additional storage space but also some conveniences. If you have young children, for example, you can stow snacks in an easy-to-access spot. Or, when you’re prepping for that big dinner party, you can keep your fresh ingredients at hand. And on the KitchenAid Superba ($2,500), you can place one drawer at a standard refrigerator temperature and the other at a “pantry” setting of up to 60° F. This would allow you, for example, to chill beer, white wine, and other beverages for your gathering in the bottom drawer and store root vegetables in the top. (All five tested models have two drawers.)
Other upsides are on the design front. Refrigerator drawers don’t eat up much floor space: On average, the units we tested are 35 inches high (they’ll fit below a standard-height counter) and 24 inches deep (matching the standard depth of base cabinets). Three models are 24 inches wide (same as a typical dishwasher), the other two, 27. And, as with many other fridges, they can fit in with the kitchen décor. All five models are available with a stainless-steel look, and the Sub-Zero 700BR ($3,200) can be fitted with a panel to match the finish of cabinets.
But you’ll pay dearly for those limited benefits. The tested models cost an average of $2,500 (prices range from $1,800 to $3,200) for what we measured as only about 4 cubic feet of usable fridge capacity (none of the models has a freezer). What’s more, while fridge drawers cost little to run (about $32 to $42 a year), they’re far less energy-efficient than any type of full-sized refrigerator in our Ratings, scoring poor in our calculations. Some other drawbacks: The Marvel 60RD ($2,500) has no bins, dividers, or shelves, and its controls are inside the top of the front frame, requiring you to open the top drawer much of the way to access them. And the U-Line Echelon ($2,500) is not equipped with an on/off switch. To unplug the unit, you need to pull the fridge out from the wall. So far, we lack repair data for refrigerator drawers.
A different solution to the problem, though possibly not as attractive, is to purchase a small freestanding refrigerator, or even a portable one that can be plugged in on an as-needed basis.
Or, there’s always the neighbors…
Appliance Odometer
Here’s more from the great thinkers at halfbakery.com. I really enjoy these ideas.
Keep track of instances/hours of kitchen appliance use:
I’m using my CostCo rice cooker bought a few months ago for the 3d time right now; it cost $30, so at the moment, I’m right at a $10 surcharge for each 4-cup rice serving, which is pretty expensive. However, in the medium term, I think it will end up saving me money on food, by helping me meet my resolution to spend less money on restaurant meals, and I’d therefore like to keep track of how often I use the cooker. However, I only know how often I’ve used it because that number is so low; I don’t have regular “rice days” either, so I can’t just multiply Mondays to arrive at a usage figure. So: I propose an electronic odometer which clicks forward a notch for every complete cycle (for a rice cooker or other 1-task appliances) or which simply keeps track of “active cycle” times for other items which are used more as-needed (blenders, washing machines, microwaves). Knowing how often particular things are used would be good in increasing household efficiency, and would be more aesthetically pleasing (though less visceral) than carving notches each time …
I have an air popcorn popper that would be a good candidate for this gadget. I also think it would be fun to see how often the power tools that are so important really get used.
What do you think?
Jenn-Air’s Convenience Oven
Sometimes all you need is a little extra help. Jenn-air’s convenience oven is just 22 inches high with a 1.2 cubic foot interior. It would be just the thing for a mini kitchen in a guest house or family room. It can bake, broil, toast or warm and the small interior heats up more quickly than a larger oven. Because it is built in, it saves counter space too. Once again though, convenience comes at a price- about $1200 – $1500.
Features:
Controls
* Cook & Hold, Favorite Setting And Keep Warm™ Oven Options.
* Customization Options Include Control Lockout And 72-Hour Sabbath Mode.
* Delay-Start Cooking And Cleaning.
* Electronic Controls With Keypad Entry Include Clock With Timer.
*
Oven
* Bake/Broil/Toast Capabilities With Hi/Lo Temperature Broiling.
* CustomClean™ Self-Cleaning Oven With Auto Lock.
* Extra-Large Panaview™ Oven Window.
* Four-Pass Broil Element.
* Halogen Lighting Of The Oven Interior.